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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.